O'Neill geeft een biografie in boekvorm uit over deze man die ervoor zorgde dat surfer het niet meer koud hoefde te hebben en langer konden surfen, wetsuits deden zijn intrede in de surfsport! Aan het einde van het interview met Jack O'Neill vind je wanneer het boek uitkomt en wat de prijs ervan is! "First in Last Out"
Before the wetsuit, how did surfers stay warm on the beach?
The main thing was making fires on the beach hang out on the beach, grab driftwood and build fires. You would grab a tire from the gas station and throw it on the fire. When you got out of the water, your capillaries would close and your skin would be almost numb, and then you’d stand in front of a fire and it felt really good.
What was the inspiration for creating the first wetsuit?
I was cold.
Did you have any science background that helped you create the first wetsuit?
Probably physics, and the K factor for insulation.
Did you ever imagine the surf industry would become what it is today?
No. When I opened my first shop in San Francisco, one of the surfers off the beaches said to me “Hey O’Neill, you’re going to sell to the 5 guys on the beach, and then you are going to be out of business.”
The terms maverick and pioneer have been thrown around a lot to describe you. Did you ever consider yourself to be a maverick or pioneer?
Mostly just a surfer.
You’ve lived in Santa Cruz since 1959, what do you think is so special about Santa Cruz?
The surfing. I think it’s one of the best spots on the coast and has a number of good breaks.
What’s the most impressive thing that you’ve witnessed in the ocean?
Waves.
What does surfing mean to you?
I would work downtown all day, get all screwed up, and then I’d go jump in the ocean and everything was ok.
What was your favorite break to surf?
Too many to mention.
Does the term waterman have any relevance to you?
It’s a term used a lot for a lot of different surfers.
You surfed and bodysurfed for hobby, and then it became a business. Did that ever take the fun out of it?
No, surfing was a very necessary part of my day—to jump in the ocean and relax. Opening my own shop was great. We’d be out testing suits and boards all day, but it was part of my business. I never felt guilty about it. Surfing was part of my work, and it was great.
How important do you feel sustainability, and the use of recycled products, plays in the marketing of surf products?
I think surfers as a whole are doing pretty much everything to keep the ocean clean. They’ve been in enough trouble with pollution and it making you sick, so they are very conscious of it. They want it clean. The O’Neill Sea Odyssey has taken more than 60,000 kids out on field trips. One of the main things we do is teach these kids that the ocean is alive, and we’ve got to take care of it.
Over the years have you had any favorite Team O’Neill riders?
Too many to mention.
How do you view what the surfers are doing on the waves today?
They are doing things on waves today that we never imagined. It’s come a long way.
What do you think when you hear “60 Years of Innovation”?
Well, it’s been a great trip. In the beginning we’d look for someone to surf with. Now we have too many people to surf with. I take blame for making it crowded. It’s been great. It’s been my whole life—Surfing.
What are your thoughts on the tagline “Damn it, we did it first”?
For a long time we didn’t have any competition so we were really able to develop our product. Then it got to a point when competitors would start copying our suits, but they weren’t very good copiers.
Any thoughts on O’Neill’s tagline “First Name in the Water?”
It’s just a fact.
De biografie: "Jack O'Neill: It's Always Summer on the Inside" zal vanaf 1 november te verkrijgen zijn in de O'Neill shops en bij andere geselecteerde retailers! Het boek zal €29,95 gaan kosten en is 256 pagina's dik! Het zal tevens het startschot zijn voor de viering van het 60 jarige bestaan van O'Neill. In 2012 zullen er meerdere events gaan plaatsvinden om dit te vieren!
